March 2003
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by Kevin Wynn |
O'Brien's Decoy
Pub & Smokehouse 815 East
Hennepin Ave. Hours: Sun 11 am
- 10 pm Fri -
Sat 11 am
- midnight Mon -
Thurs 11 am
- 11 pm GPS
coordinates--N 44º59.472'
W093º14.851' It's
barely been above zero degrees for most of the past two
weeks. The nearly snow-free winter we've had so far had left
me with the lingering hope that we'd have an early spring.
But the wind is howling, the windows rattling. Ice is thick
on the side streets and even worse in the alley between my
garage and the main road. The bikes are all tucked in for
the winter. I don't yet have a "winter" bike I can take out
in this weather without worrying about salt and crash
damage, yet. This is no time to be riding, I'll grant you
that. But that doesn't change the craving to ride somewhere
to eat. When ribs beckon to me, I heed the call. If time, or
weather, doesn't allow a trip somewhere, the answer is
clear- O'Brien's Decoy, Pub & Smokehouse in
Minneapolis. I've been raving
about O'Brien's for years, bringing my family and friends
here, bringing home takeout. When my wife, Denise, and I are
planning a night out for dinner, O'Brien's is always one of
our top choices. Up until now I'd just enjoyed "my rib
joint" for its own sake. Now it's time to share. Owner and chef
Kevin O'Brien has had an impact on fine local barbeque in
some way for a long time. I learned that he started working
for a Rudolph's Barbeque as a line cook while still in high
school. His employer sent him to school including the
Culinary Institute of America, to become a professional
chef. Kevin later became the corporate chef for all of
Rudolph's Barbeque, which at one time included locations as
far away as Japan. After more than 20 years with one
company, O'Brien decided he wanted to own and operate his
own place. His employer offered to sell him the East
Hennepin restaurant and the deal was done. The menu here
includes what you would expect--an outstanding selection of
ribs, from prodigious country style pork and two varieties
of baby back ribs and spareribs, to charbroiled beef ribs
that will have you licking your fingers for every last bit
of flavor. The sweet and tangy sauces are everything you
could want in a fine barbeque sauce. Every time I eat here I
am torn between the ribs I love so much and trying one of
the other fine and unique entrées on the menu. Oh
yes, there's more, much more than just ribs
here
On this visit, in
the interest of research, I tried a couple of selections I'd
never had before. One was the signature Decoy Burger, a
monstrous large thing, heaped with sauteed mushrooms and
onions, bacon and cheeses--practically a meal for two with
the included jo-jo fries. And then for something on the
lighter side, I ordered a Strawberry Kiwi Chicken salad,
which comes replete with broiled chicken breast, the obvious
fresh fruit as well as grapes and walnuts, topped with a
vinaigrette dressing. This salad alone is more than a meal
for most appetites, and the fresh fruit gave me a little
more longing for spring. Over the years
I've also had the pleasure of trying the Smoked Salmon Pizza
and the BBQ Pork sandwich. Both were very good, although I
prefer pulled pork over the thin sliced served here. The
Broiled Walleye, the Sirloin Steak and the BBQ Buffalo
Burger have also crossed my path over the years and are
highly recommended. Denise has nothing but praise for the
Center Cut Pork Chops and the Basil Garlic
Chicken. Still to sample
are interesting plates like BBQ Duck and Broiled Salmon, but
there's plenty of time for that, when I can resist the ribs.
Most of the menu items are in the $12-$16.00 range, and with
sides of the excellent homemade coleslaw or O'Brien's Pub
Mashed Potatoes, always result in leftovers for the next
days lunch. Kevin O'Brien is
an avid hunter and fisherman, so the décor reflects
his interest. Whether or not you are of like mind, you'll
appreciate the extensive collection of antique and hand
carved decoys and fishing lures, some even carved by O'Brien
himself. If you can't wait
for the roads to clear to try this place, that's all right,
but bikers are welcome here anytime. A couple of local clubs
even have regular meetings here. In the summer there is
outdoor seating as well. O'Brien's Decoy
Pub & Smokehouse is located in one of Minneapolis'
hottest neighborhoods, just across the river from downtown
Minneapolis. From the south or west take the East Hennepin
Avenue exit off I-35W and go west. From the north, exit 35W
at Stinson, go south to East Hennepin, then west. Now that I've told
you about "my rib joint", behave yourself when you go there.
I know you'll enjoy O'Brien's Decoy as much as I do.
Eat well. Ride
well. M.M.M.

Minneapolis, MN 55414
Phone: 612.623.3671
www.obriensdecoypub.com
* This article originally
appeared in the March
2003 issue of Minnesota
Motorcycle Monthly.