October 2002
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by Kevin Wynn |
LaReyna
Restaurant 225 Main
Street Hours: Monday 10
a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday
- Saturday 10
a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday 10
a.m. to 5 p.m. Grocery
Store 7
days/week GPS coordinates
- N41º 16.760' W091º 21.627' The
narrow main street of this little town reverberated with
sound as they rode in off the plains. Mostly in two's and
three's but occasionally alone, the riders brought with them
a hunger and thirst that needed immediate attention. I
watched from across the street as they parked their two
wheeled steeds at the curb. They'd cast a squinty eye up and
down the street in the mid-afternoon sun, and disappear into
the bar and grill. What fools they were. Settling for mere
burgers and fries, when they were within steps of real,
homemade food. If only they knew what they were missing.
I suppose you
could chalk it up to ignorance, or a "ride American, buy
American" mindset, but I didn't see the point in riding some
great distance and then settling for just an average
hamburger. Then again, maybe they didn't come that far. The
bikes were too clean, the riding gear too "stylish" to have
been worn for very many miles. They didn't ride here to eat,
just to hang with their bro's and be seen. I had just spent
the past hour packing my neck with truly outstanding Mexican
food. And I was packing my saddlebags with leftovers for
later that night, due to the portions served. When you spend
all day in the saddle, you'd like to end the ride with
something memorable. La Reyna Restaurant in Columbus
Junction, Iowa is definitely one to remember. Having only
recently graduated from Taco Bell as my experience with
Mexican food, I've been slowly expanding my knowledge. I've
sampled two Mexican restaurants in my Northeast Minneapolis
neighborhood recently, and this kinda weird guy I know keeps
bringing me burritos from his favorite place in Chicago. The
local Minneapolis places are really good, the stuff from
Chicago just so-so. It had seemed
unlikely that I'd find a real jewel of Mexican home-style
cooking in Iowa, but since I needed to be in Davenport that
night anyway, it was worth a try. I walked into a family
restaurant/grocery store, with the whole family working and
playing there. Carlos Legaspi and his middle son, Daniel,
were up front at the cash register and in the
"supermercado". Carmen and their eldest son, Alex, were in
the kitchen, which is open to the restaurant. Their youngest
child, Karena, maybe 4 years old, played at one of the
tables. My waitress, Maria Luisa, had been a family friend
as long as she could remember. There was laughing and
smiling, festive music playing; not so much different from
being in my mother's kitchen on a holiday, (well, except my
mother is Norwegian, and the music would likely be Barbra
Streisand). A very welcoming atmosphere! Perusing the menu
while munching on fresh tortilla chips and some outstanding
salsa, I watched a couple of the other tables receive their
orders and realized I was about to get some rather large
portions of food. The Fajitas Combo seemed especially
popular among the all-Caucasian clientele. (Ah yes,
something recognizable from our usual suburban chain
restaurant menus). It did look better than any I'd had
before, but was such a large platter I decided to try
something smaller for more variety. I ordered a Combinacion
Con Tostada-Molida (which I think means Tostada Combo-Beef.
($6.99). I ended up with my own platter of too much food for
one person. Boy was it good, with rice and beans and fresh
tortillas, I'm sure I looked the rube, but I sure enjoyed
it. Then arrived my
Camarones Ala Diabla (Shrimp, Hot & Spicy. $9.50). I
love spicy food, but I proceeded with caution, as sometimes
our Midwestern opinion of "spicy" is somewhat overwhelmed by
authentic recipes. I was pleased to taste an excellent,
flavorful, sweat-inducing dish without annihilating my taste
buds for the rest of the weekend. More rice and beans and
tortillas helped calm things down. Finally, I ordered
a Burrito Grande Pollo (Large Chicken Burrito. $5.99) to go.
I didn't open it while I was there but planned to take it
with me for a late dinner. That night, after I'd settled
into my motel and found a beer, the burrito warmed up nicely
in the microwave and made for another belly stretching
feast. Far superior to any other burrito I've had.
Columbus Junction
is about 340 miles away by the quickest route, but I
recommend wandering your way along the two lane country
roads of eastern Iowa, which will save some miles, but take
a little longer. Take US 218 south of Iowa City to IA 92,
then go west to Columbus Junction. Then do as I did and take
in a ballgame in Davenport where the Twins class A farm
team, the River Bandits, plays in a beautiful little park
next to the river. I'd eaten so much
that afternoon and evening that I wasn't hungry again until
late the next day and I vowed to check out some the other
local Mexican places near my home. But I'm looking forward
to my next chance to visit La Reyna. Eat well. Ride
well. M.M.M.

Columbus Junction, IA 52738
Phone (319) 728-8182
* This article originally
appeared in the October
2002 issue of Minnesota
Motorcycle Monthly.