April 1997
|
by Shawn Downey |
|
Smiling
like a 65-year-old recipient of the Publisher's
Clearinghouse award, I ventured down my favorite strip in
spring's sweltering 45 degree weather. My beauty of a
motorcycle (She's a beauty when she's running. She has
another pet name when she's not.) was eating up the road
like a pac man on Surge Cola. I speed shifted
and rode a good half block with the front end reaching to
the heavens. While bringing the front wheel to rest on the
tarmac, I was jolted from my nirvana with a bone crushing
WHAM! The front wheel found a pothole the size of a small
moon crater. I looked over my shoulder in disbelief then
returned my focus to the road. Horror! The pothole directly
in front of me looked like a manhole with the cover removed.
It could have easily qualified as a basement in some bedroom
communities. Not only did the
rim wobble from side to side past the recommended half-inch
tolerance, it was also out of round way beyond the suggested
quarter-inch. Judging by the extensive damage to the edge of
the rim, I could ascertain that the tire seating would
certainly give way to an expanded bead, and the chrome had
flaked. The flaking chrome may seem minor in comparison to
the other physical damage, but hey, just try to find someone
to do the labor intensive and material absorbing prep work
at a reasonable price. You would have better luck finding
Waldo. Before contacting
my favorite British bike parts supplier, I sat down and
contemplated which wheel to order. Should I stick to the
original equipment manufacturer or opt for a replacement one
size over the original? If I purchased the original rim, I
wouldn't need to purchase a full set of spokes, and I would
learn about the lacing pattern while dismantling the
original rim. Speaking of
original, when do you think we'll get another original
morning show on an alternative station? But, I digress.
In addition to the
obvious advantage of economics, buying the original
equipment specifications would maintain the "all original"
status of my trusty stead. So, why even consider purchasing
the larger wheel? Tires. A vast selection of tires. As
motorcycles have evolved their tires have grown wider and
wider. Someone in manufacturing finally figured out that to
achieve a really good smoky burnout or a peg-grinding lean
angle motorcycles needed more rubber on the pavement. This
evolution has left the selection of good narrow tires pretty
thin. Original or
selection? Times like this, I reflect upon my childhood
memories of my granddad and his infinite wisdom. He used to
say, "Sonny, dey just don' make nut'in' new dats good no
mo'. Now, go ge' me my damn dentures, so you can undar'tand
what da' hell I'm saying." While waiting for
the new original spec wheel to arrive, I began to remove the
spokes from my Easter Egg of a rim. (The memory loss due to
opening numerous doors with my gourd required that I snap a
couple of photos of the original lacing pattern for
reference.) By spraying down the rim with my preferred
lubricant and using a gentle twisting motion in 1/4 turns, I
was able to save ninety percent of the original
spokes. One fine and happy
day the UPS man showed up on my doorstep with one shiny new
original equipment rim. After I removed my dog's clenched
jaws from the UPS man, I coated the threads of the spokes
with an anti-seize compound (pick one) and began to finger
tighten the left inside spokes and then the right inside to
create a spiral effect. I finished the right side outer
spokes then the left side outer spokes, then I put the newly
assembled rim into my state-of-the-art wheel jig. One spin
of the wheel and WHOAAA! Can you say Fred Flinstone wheel?!?
As is typical, the rim was a tad eccentric. It is important to
work on the "roundness" of the rim first, so I put together
a portion of the fender assembly to use as a standard of
measurement for the high spots. When the rim rubbed the
fender, I marked it with chalk. Common sense dictates which
spokes to tighten and which ones to loosen (or in my case,
my wife pointed it out). When the wheel was
within 1/4" of being completely round, I turned my attention
to the side to side wobble. Just as before, I marked the
high spots and tightened the right hand spokes when the
spots were high and left and loosened the left hand spokes
when the spots were low and left. The wheel was becoming
geometrically round, so I radically reduced the spoke
adjustments to 1/4 and 1/8 turns. One final rap on all the
spokes produced a glorious "TING". I gave another 1/8 turn
to the Mr. Clinks and watched to see that the others stayed
true. New wheels loosen
up, so I gave all the spokes the once-over with 1/8 turns
after about 50 miles. Now, I'm looking for a new patch of
favorite road to replace "Downtown Beirut". Any
suggestions? M.M.M.
After
a couple of bottles of Bactine, I dragged my limping butt to
the garage to check out the damage. Was that an Easter Egg?
No, that was my front wheel. To get a better idea of the
damage, I removed the front wheel and placed it in my
genuine non-imitation home-made wheel jig (which also serves
as a goal post for empty Guiness cans). I made the wheel jig
using 4" x 4"s to create a 2' x 2' base. I secured a pair of
2" x 4"s vertically to this base. Lining the notched ends of
the 2" x 4"s with metal strips and greased loose ball
bearings allowed the axle to spin freely while holding a
piece of chalk or a grease pencil next to the rim.
* This article originally appeared in the April
1997 issue of Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly.
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